Final Thoughts on the Nikon 1 V1

Putting the 105mm f/2.8 AFS G VR micro-Nikkor on the V1 gives you a fast, sharp 280mm lens that can focus as close as you want.

I’ve had my Nikon 1 V1 for less than a month, and I’m very pleased with it overall. I guess I should have titled my original review “The Nikon V1, Or How I Quit Worrying and Learned to Love CX Format.” Well, not exactly… Keep in mind that my overall opinion of this camera system has not changed. It’s an excellent family compact camera that delivers substantially better image quality and performance than its Coolpix peers. It’s not a camera that’s going to go head to-head with the image quality of larger sensor mirror-less models. With that in mind, here’s where I think Nikon has room to improve upon the V1, and the Nikon 1 System. Continue reading

Nikon 1 V1 Accessories

Prehistoric Battle. Nikon 1 V1 with 10-30mm kit lens. ISO 2800

I’ve spent some more time and some more money with my Nikon 1 V1 camera. You can read my initial review here. Since that time, I’ve gotten four accessories for the camera:

  • Nikon FT1 F-mount adapter
  • Nikon GP-N100 GPS receiver
  • Nikon ML-L3 infrared remote
  • Nikon AS-N1000 Accessory Shoe Mount

Of these, all of them are nice with the exception of the AS-N1000 shoe adapter. Nikon’s own web page was extremely vague: “The AS-N1000 Multi Accessory Port Adapter flets you connect a wide range of accessories to the hot shoe on the Nikon 1 V1 digital camera. Accessories that require a power supply can not be used.”

Given that the thing only set me back about $27.00 at B&H, it’s not a huge deal. But it doesn’t do anything. No electrical contacts. Nada. It’s basically a cold shoe for the Nikon  1 V1. I was hoping (fingers crossed) that this little gizmo would let me use a Nikon Speedlight (or better, the SU-800 commander) on my V1. No dice. So for $27 you get a cold shoe for mounting stuff to your camera, like the Nikon ME-1 stereo microphone, or maybe some other non-essential shoe-mount item. Oh well, at least now you’ve been warned.

As for the other accessories, they work as advertised. The FT1 mount adapter is great for attaching your F-mount Nikkors to the V1, and it works well. There are some limitations (full review here) with focusing, so don’t rush out to get that 300mm f/4 Nikkor just yet and think you’ll be shooting action sports with the equivalent of an 810mm lens.

The GP-N100 GPS receiver is small, compact, and fits into the powered flash/accessory port on the V1. It draws its power from the V1′s onboard battery, so no additional power is required. I took it outside and after a few seconds it acquired my position. When using the GP-N100, you have a GPS menu option in the Tools menu that lets you see your current coordinates and altitude. You can also choose to use GPS to set the camera’s internal clock.

The Nikon GP-N100 adds GPS data to your images.

The ML-L3 infrared remote is the standard Nikon remote that also works with many of their DSLRs. To use it, you need to enter the self-timer menu from the Command Dial and choose remote mode. I tested it and it worked as advertised. This little remote is perfect for group shots on a tripod or self-portraits where you don’t want to use a timer.

Nikon 1 V1 with AI/AIS Nikkor Lenses

Pikes Peak at sunrise. Nikon 1 V1 with 50mm f/2.0 AI Nikkor lens and FT1 adapter

I decided to try my old 50mm f/2.0 AI Nikkor on the V1 with the FT1 adapter, which I tested for the first time yesterday. Many of us have old MF Nikkors lying around, so I thought this would be interesting. I had no problem mounting the AI lens on the FT1. As you would expect, there are some limitations:

  • Metering is available in Manual or Aperture-priority modes only
  • Matrix Metering is not enabled; center-weighted metering or spot-metering are supported
  • Focus is MF only (duh)
  • Aperture is not displayed or recorded by the camera in EXIF.

That being said, the MF operation of the V1, especially with the built-in viewfinder is easy enough to use. You can zoom in on the image for more precise focus. Just make sure you’ve got the viewfinder diopter adjusted properly so that everything is sharp.

I’ve had this old 50mm lens since 1986, and I’d say it’s still up to the task even on a 21st-century camera! I’m sure the 2.7x crop factor helps here, as you’re using only the very sharpest part of the lens. There’s no light fall-off whatsoever and sharpness is very good.